lancetkenyon

Burris is owned by Steiner (or vice versa), and they both have a 100% lifetime transferable no questions asked warranty. Decent turnaround time too. My Steiner went back twice until it got figured out and came back acceptable. Both times took about 3 weeks from ship to recieved back. I am sure Burris will handle it.

I had never been a fan of Savage before the last one I did load development for. Being an R700 man, Savage always seemed "cheap" to me. But after shooting that last Savage 111 LRH changed my opinion on them. That .300WM could shoot! I put one of my better groups down range on a steel with it. I actually measured it with the owner, and it put 3 into a 2.25" group at 727 yards with the final load. 210 HVLD @ 2940fps. I always had the opinion of Weatherby being that you are paying for the name more than the rifle. But you can't argue with their proprietary cartridges get good speed.

Being as it is only 1 photo, from what I can see, that buck is a giant. Take a look at the single photo. Super tall Looks from the angle to be wider than his ears, maybe 28" maybe 32"+, but without a front shot hard to tell Good mass Great back forks Good front forks Good main beam length G4 on left side is a little short compared to right G4 Anyone that says that is not a huge buck is either: 1. Terrible at judging mule deer 2. Jealous My opinion is anything that would make B&C is a big buck. And to accomplish that with a bow makes it even tougher. Guided* or not, fantastic archery buck. I would consider a person who guides for a living, even if he takes the buck himself unassisted, to still be a "guided" Hunt. Not many people can spend the time in the field to get this opportunity. But still, is it working if you are doing what you love and just happen to get paid for it?

^ This. I like my Flatline Ops levels the best. Vortex Lopro are decent too, especially for the price.

Just my opinions, but, I don't know if I could disagree more with a lot of this post. All of my rifles are hunting rifles. All shoot very well, all are sub-half MOA and most much better. Chasing that extra .1" better accuracy is a blast. Heck, I still tinker with loads that shoot in the .2s. 1" @ 100 is good for shots out to 500-600 if the shooter can maintain that level of accuracy. Add environmental conditions that open up groups, and that MOA rifle could shoot a 10" group at 500 instead of a 5" group you are expecting. That could be a wounded animal or a miss. No need to "pick one", when having both should be very attainable, even with a factory rifle. Striving for "perfection" is not a disease, it is an addiction. A very rewarding one at that. As for shooting out your barrel, unless you have put a thousand+ rounds down range in the search for an accurate load, or shot it until the barrel glowed red, I am betting it is not shot out. As for the OP's questions, some guns are crazy finicky. Ithe might take more than 5 charge weight tests to find a new accurate load. In looking at the groups, you are not maintaining any type of POI between different charge weights. From .5" to 1.5" POI (center of groups) shift, meaning you are probably not in an accuracy node for your rifle. At 100 yards, that means if you have a 1" of vertical dispersion, at 400, it will probably be 4". But without shooting a ladder test @ 400 first, you won't know where your accuracy node n is. Don'the give up after just shooting 5 charge weight tests. You have a lot of tweaking to do. Try checking out the reloading section here. Lots of info on different methods people use to get a rifle shooting well.

Nice meeting you.

Here you go. Check for yourself. Use the weight calculator from LRI. https://www.longriflesinc.com/collections/gunsmithing-services/products/gunsmithing-services-barrel-fluting

Wind Canted rifle Canted reticle Torque with shooting hand/trigger finger Shooting position Rest Spin drift Zero POI

Depends on the depth, number, cut design, and length of the flutes. 4-10 Oz. My .300RUM with deep helical flutes in a heavy varmint contour @ 28" made 9 Oz. difference.

Bryce Canyon... Now THAT is a fantastic post! Sweet looking elk hammer.

.25-06 AI 28" #4 w. 5-20x50 SWFA is about 10.5# 7RM 26" fluted #3 w. 5-20X50 Vortex Razor is 9.6# .260 Rem 26" #3 w. 3-20x50 S&B is 10.5# 6.5 SLR 28" Sendero w. 6-24x56 Kahles is 15.5# .300RUM 28" fluted heavy varmint w. 5-25x56 Steiner is 14.2#. I carried the 15.5# around for 9 days, and the 14.2# around for 8 days last year. While not my first choice for a carry rifle, the accuracy is hard to beat. I just built the 9.6# 7RM and bought the 10.5# .260 Rem this year to reduce carry weights for this season. The heavies will still be in the truck or pack for short hikes or glossing near roads, but the lighter rifles will go for the long hikes with me this year. The heavies definitely have their advantages and place.

Give a little info to help. Don't be a barrel tease. Chamberings? Action it is on and other rifle info? Length? Twist rate? Contour? Rounds down the barrel? What bullets and speeds are you shooting? How do they shoot? What ranges have you shot them to?

I had a PM about tripod adapters. Here is my take. For the 10x42s, the Vortex Unidapter with the finger tightening knob fits fine. But not for the 50 or 56mm objective glasses. You need the Unidapter with the allen head bolt to fit between the body of those.

On the early hunt last year, in 9 days of hard hunting, we saw 5 bucks bigger than anything I have ever shot. All 180"+. But making it happen with my 13 year old daughter proved difficult. I would say she had a total of at least 2 hours behind the gun with a buck in the scope, waiting for a clean shot that never materialized. But the opportunities were there. We also saw another 15 or so mature 4x4 or better. But then again, one day, we saw nothing but forkies, I think 25 that day? From yearlings, to a decent 24" wide tall forky. All about spending time in the field.

Consistency. Match primers just have better QC during manufacturing. Consistency means better chance for accuracy.

They just opened yesterday. They have a lot of reloading supplies in stock. I walked out with 2000 Fed GM210M primers that have been hard to find for 2 years. For $37/1000. No H4350, I looked.

Also goes to show you a bad shot with a bow doesn't always kill an elk. Many survive fine, if not for some pain. Bullets fail. Muzzle loader slugs fail. Arrows fail. Spears fail.

How about going to the wall? I have a buddy who had steel straps made in the shape of an L. Bolted to studs in the wall and lay underneath the safe with holes and bolts through it and facing up. Nuts on the inside of the safe.

Not monsters, but all of these were seen driving to or from hunting areas last year. All less than 100 yards from a road.

Whoever told you it will be hard to find a nice 4 point must be a road hunter. Even then, they must be blind in one eye and only go out for an hour or two. Hunt the muzzy Hunt just like you would any other hunt. Get out, glass, cover ground, stay out, and you will get opportunities.

I have the Meopta Meostar 10x42 & Cabela's Euro 15x56, and LOVE them.

I will be up on Saturday shooting some tree rats, but I can give some pointers, and maybe, MAYBE, show him where to look. How is his shooting? And what kind of pronghorn is he looking for? I know some spots that I always see goats, but not monsters.

How about Friday afternoon, at the Sportsman's Warehouse? PM inbound.

Does the hunt start this Friday?

I do almost all of my LR shooting off a front bipod and rear bag. It has worked out to 1901 so far. I also practice a lot off a ruck or pack. I also do ALL of my load development from a bipod and bag. Could I get better groups from a lead sled? I am not sure, but the loads I have developed are not for bench rest matches. So I know they shoot well from a pod. I have heard a lot of really good shooters suggest not using a lead sled. Does it give you good results? Usually. But, so does riding a bike with training wheels or a bowling lane with bumper pads. It does NOTHING for shooting form. Which is 50%+ of long range shooting success. A poor shooter with an accurate rifle will not shoot nearly as well as a great shooter behind a mediocre rifle. Proper shooting form is a lesson learned from a lot of practice using good basics and fundamentals. Improper shooting form will show you what you are doing wrong. A lead sled does nothing to help with that. I also try to shoot from positions that will be available in the field for medium distances, out to 600-700 or so. If I am shooting at a distant target, prone is my position of choice. But I regularly shoot from a sitting, or standing with a rest or support too. I never carry a lead sled in my pack while hunting, so that is not an option or feasible. I see a LOT of shooters (and I use that term loosely) at the range that set up their lead sled and shoot a 3"+ group @ 100 and call it good. What do you think they will shoot like at a deer at 300? Minute of mountainside is my bet.